Q: I’ve ordered the printer, what should I do/get while I wait for my CR-10?
A: -Get a micro SD card extension cable. The microSD slot on the printer is fragile and you want to minimize the wear and tear on that part.
-Get a few 1kg spools of PLA, what comes with the printer isn’t much.
-Get some decent 6 or 7 inch tweezers for when you need to grab a glob of molten plastic off the hot nozzle.
-Consider getting Raspberry Pi 3b to run Octoprint if you have Wifi at home, it really is more convenient.
Q: Where can I find things to print?
A: Lots of places!
*) Thingiverse – http://www.thingiverse.com/
*) YouMagine – https://www.youmagine.com/
*) STLFinder (search engine) – https://www.stlfinder.com/
*) Yeggi (search engine) – http://www.yeggi.com/
*) Shapeways (can also 3D print for you) – https://www.shapeways.com/
*) My Mini Factory – https://www.myminifactory.com/
*) Cookie Caster (create custom cookie cutters) – http://www.cookiecaster.com/
*) Image to Lithophane – http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/
Q: I found something online I want to print, how to I get my printer to do it?
A: The files you get online are most often in the STL format. You printer works by following instructions in a Gcode file. You need to use a slicer program to process the STL into Gcode for your printer. In other words STL = blueprint. Gcode = Instruction. Feed the blueprint to the foreman (slicer) to produce instructions (Gcode). Then feed the Gcode to the worker (printer). Read more about slicers here https://pinshape.com/blog/3d-slicer-settings-5-things-you-need-to-know-about-3d-printing-software/ The most popular slicers are Cura, Slic3r, and Simplify3D. The first two are free and the third is $150 USD. They each have their advantages and you will get good results with any of them.
Q: I just got my printer and I don’t know how to
A: Go to the file section of the Facebook CR-10 group and get the file called « Afinibot A31 User Manual 2-24-17.pdf » shared by Joshua Van Vleet as it explains all the steps you need to take to get your printer ready for its first print. Also check out the great videos put together by Chris Bennett of Tiny Machines over at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXHaRYXZL5T9BWcH8j-ByfQ
Q: What are some of the essential things that I should print?
A: The top two are:
Creality CR-10 Strain relief bracket for heated bed cable – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186203
Creality CR-10 Filament Guide – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186253
Here are other popular mods:
CR-10 Hot End Cable Management guide – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2170551
CR-10 Y-axis Belt Tensioner – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2168903
CR-10 Redesigned Fan Mount/Shroud/Duct – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2166447 (note: uses 50mm x 50 mm fans – not stock and different screws)
CR-10 Webcam mount – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2178265
CR-10 40mm Stock Hot End Cooling Duct – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2160958 (no part fan yet…)
CR-10 Fan Mod – Another way of mounting the bed cooling fan – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187123
CR-10 Z-axis End Stop Adjustment – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2158261 (replaces factory end stop and is adjustable)
CR-10 Filament Fan Shroud Replacement – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2100248 (reduces air that hits the hot end from the bed cooling fan)
CR-10 Tool Storage Trays – http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2191675
Flexible Filament Extruder Upgrade for Creality CR-7, CR-10, Afinibot A5, A31 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2144277
Q: Why does the bed/carriage on my new printer rock/wobble back and forth so much?
A: One side of the carriage has eccentric spacers on it. A wrench was included that fit these. If you look at the wheels on both sides you will see that one set has what looks like an extra nut on them. Turn each of these to snug the wheels up against the extrusion. Go back and read the manual described in the first answers; if you missed this step you may have missed others as well.
Q: What should I have as a surface to print PLA?
A: Tons of options and preferences. You can use tape, tape washed with isopropyl alcohol, 1:10 mix of white PVA glue with water applied as a thin layer, dissapearing purple glue stick applied as a thin layer, super hold hairsray like Aqua Net, a sheet of PEI glued to glass, plain glass, glass that has been roughed up with sand paper, commercial build surfaces like BuildTak, Zebra plates, and more. There’s no one answer but try the ones you want until you find what works best for you.
Q: I can’t seem to get my bed level no matter what I try. Help.
A: First level the bed using a sheet of paper as described in the manual (you read it, right?). Remember to do this while the bed and hot end are both at the temperature you plan to print at. Use little adjustments of 1/8 to 1/4 turn and go round and round the four corners several times until every corner feels about right, using the paper method. Once you have that you are in the ballpark of level. Next print the version 3 bed level calibration file found here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2188146
Print the file then look at each corner. Ideally you want it so that each line of filament in the square it touching its neighbor so that they form one flat surface, not a bunch of disconnected bars. That means you have enough « squish ». Next feel the top of the squares so that they are relatively smooth. If they feel ridged and you can see scars where the nozzle traveled across them then you are squishing too much and the nozzle is extruding more plastic than there is room for. Depending on what you find in each corner I adjust that corner up or down and print again until you have nice squares that are neither ridged nor loose bars.
Q: I still can’t get my bed level, at best I get the corners printing well but the center is too close/far. Help.
A: Lots of people report this problem with the original glass that comes with the printer. For many that glass is not of even thickness which causes the center to bow or sag. Try flipping the glass over and re-level to see if one side is better. Make sure to mark the sides with tape or something so you can tell which is which later on. If neither side gives good result then get yourself a new piece of glass. Get a piece cut at a local glass shop, buy a mirror tile of the right size, or cut a mirror or piece of glass to the right size. Some advocate borosilicate glass while others have success with plain mirrors so read up on it and decide what you prefer. For many people that were having levelling problems changing the glass made all the difference.
Q: The center of my bed is sagging all the time, what can I do?
A: You can add support and a leveling point near the center of the bed using http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2168244 Be aware this adds a fifth leveling point so level your corners first then in small steps use this wedge jack to support the center until it is level.
Q: When I print my an object it appears in the center of the bed in my slicer software but it prints in the front left corner of the bed, why?
A: Make sure « Machine center is Zero » is NOT checked in your Cura printer settings. On the CR-10 the 0,0,0 coordinate is the front left corner of the bed.
Q: I’m sure my bed is level and the cat model printed out great but everything else I try to print the filament barely comes out, why?
A: Make sure that in your slicer settings your filament is set to 1.75mm and not 2.85mm or 3mm.
Q: I’ve got my bed level, what should I print now?
A: Print the cat found on the SD card under the « 4.modle » folder. You can then compare your print of the cat to the ones other people have done. Since this file is already in Gcode you are running the exact same print instructions as other people have which makes it a great print to check that your printer is well set up. When you start slicing your own files your slicer settings will affect the quality of your print. Once you have the cat printed consider printing http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186203 and http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2186253 as these modifications are excellent and address two of the biggest issues with the original design.
Q: I’m in the middle of a print and I want to switch the filament, how do I do this?
A: In the controller menu go to Tune>change filament (last option at the bottom). It will move the head and beep at you. Change your filament carefully making sure not to bump the gantry and change the Z position. In the controller menu click to resume. Check out this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Od3W-asW3FY&feature=youtu.be
Q: How much infill should I set my slicer to use for my prints?
A: Infill can be low most of the time, like 10%. Unless you need something solid because it will be squeezed between fasteners keep my infill low. Play with it in layer view to see where the internal support lines will be as it can affect the top layers of your model.
Q: My extruder doesn’t work. When I try to use it through the control box nothing happens.
A: The extruder motor will not turn when your nozzle is not at 100c or higher. This is a safety feature to protect the nozzle from having cold hard filament shoved into it.
Q: So I tried to print something today and the nozzle is not extruding filament? What’s wrong?
A: Your nozzle is clogged or the filament has gotten clogged somewhere in the heat break.
Stop the print. Heat the nozzle 5-10 degrees hotter than you were printing then pull the filament out (by holding the extruder open with one hand and yanking with the other. If you’re lucky you’ll pull the whole thing out in one go. Let’s assume that happens. You’ll see that at the end of the filament is a wide bulb like part. This is the part that got too wide to fit into the nozzle. This can happen when your retraction settings are too high and/or your filament stalls because the spool locks up (knots in the filament for example).
Now cut off the end of the filament to remove the bad part. Inspect the filament for areas where the extruder may have ground away parts of the filament when trying to push past the clog and make sure you cut away to above those parts. Make cut diagonal to make it easier to feed the filament back in.
Open the extractor and insert the freshly cut filament back into the bowden tube. Make sure your nozzle is at printing temperature. Push the filament in with your hand until you feel the resistance and start seeing plastic come out of the nozzle. Keep pushing until the plastic comes out nice and straight and clean. You’re ready to print again!
Q: How do I adjust the Steps per MM on my extruder?
A: You can either adjust the flow setting in your slicer or add a M92 EXXX command to your starting G-code where XXX is the number of steps per mm.
Q: The fan on the front of the hot end is on all the time but the one on the right isn’t spinning, is that normal?
A: Fan in front should be on when the printer is on. Fan on the right is only on when told to turn on, by the gcode, when printing. If you have the opposite then it means your fans were switched when they were plugged into the control board. It has happened to others before. Just open up the case, locate the two sets of fan wires and unplug/switch/replug them on the board.
**Q: What does everything mean on the screen of the control box?
A: Check out this image http://imgur.com/CsoqXsM
Q: The PTFE Bowden tube on my printer keeps popping out and coming loose from the extruder or hot end. Why?
A: Make sure that the Bowden tube (the white plastic tube) is pushed all the way into the fitting. It takes a fair bit of pressure to get it seated, more than you think. You’ll feel it click in positively when it seats. If you’ve done this and your tube is still coming loose you can ensure that the fitting stays in the clamped position by placing a clip on it like this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:936611
Q: How do I reduce stringing, blobbing, lines not connecting, and other various issues with the quality of my prints?
A: Check out the links in this post as well as these other websites:
Q: The Micro SD card slot on my printer doesn’t work or has just stopped working, why?
A: The MicroSD card slot on these printers is fragile and in some cases a batch of bad connectors were used in the build of the printer. This was discovered by Chris Bennett over at Tiny Machines and he posted more details here https://www.facebook.com/tinymachines3d/photos/a.365359850516123.1073741828.362192320832876/379416435777131/?type=3&theater
Q: I want to connect to my printer using its USB port (with my PC or a Raspberry Pi) but it’s not working, why?
A: Make sure you have set the Baud rate to 115200.
Q: Can I use 2.85 mm or 3 mm filament with the CR-10?
A: You cannot use filament other than 1.75 mm unless you do substantial modifications to the extruder, bowden system, hot end throat, and nozzle. These are not trivial modifications so unless you are prepared to modify most of the parts that handle the filament then you would be better to stick with 1.75 mm filament. That being said there are modifications out there that use the E3D volcano that get you most of the way to being able to print 2.85 mm filament. Do your research if you want to go this route.
Q: I think I want to replace the nozzle on my CR-10 Hot end. What do I need to know?
A: A nozzle change is a common upgrade especially if you want to print abrasive filament (any filament that isn’t plain clear or opaque plastic) or print at higher 250c+ temperatures (ABS, PETG, Nylon). For hot printing you want to make sure that the thermal tube, the part that connects the heat sink to the heat block, is all metal. For abrasive filament you want a nozzle that is either hardened, steel, or otherwise coated.
The stock nozzle size is Mk 8 (which uses M6 threads) and the stock extruder is MK10. For a great video on how to do the actual swap watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9WWJV5BNnA4 from Tiny Machines 3D
Q: What layer height should I use?
A: In general the thinner the layer the better the print resolution which means your print will look better. It also means the print will take longer. For example a print using 0.2mm layers will take twice as long as a print using 0.4mm layers.
Other than quality and speed you also need to factor your nozzle diameter. For best accuracy you should keep your layer height between 1/4 and a bit over 1/2 of the nozzle diameter. In addition to faster print speed with thicker layers you also get comparatively stronger layer adhesion (layers less likely to split apart when under stress). This gives you a spectrum of choice from slow with fine details to fast with less details but stronger. In other words use thinner layers for pretty prints and thicker layers for functional prints.
Finally the CR-10 has a four start, 2mm pitch, 8mm lead screws which means that for a full step of the Z stepper motor the Z travel is 0.04mm. Although our printer can certainly hande 0.01mm Z steps it is most accurate on full steps. At full steps the stepper motor can hold/lock the Z axis better and there is less chance of a slight Z shift while the print moves around in the X and Y (which causes shaking). Because of that you should get maximum precision on the Z axis when your layer height is an even multiple of 0.04mm. Use these values with the stock nozzle for layer height for best print quality, regardless of your choice of thin or thick layers. 0.12mm 0.16mm 0.2mm 0.24mm
Q: I think I want the S4 or the S5. What are the differences?
A: The S4 has a 400x400mm build plate (for a 400mm3 build volume) and the S5 has a 500x500mm build plate as well as an extra 100mm build height (for a 500mm3 build volume). Both models share have a dual rail bed support compared to the single rail on the CR-10. The S5 has a second lead screw and Z stepper motor.
The main limiting factor to the CR-10 appears to be the heated bed since while the print area grows the power driven to it does not. The S4 struggles with the higher temps (80c+) for the bed and the S5 has it worse. What works perfectly well in terms of watts for the CR-10 comes a bit short on the S4 and worse on the S5 so if you plan on these models prepare to insulate the underside of the plate or completely replace the heater with a Keenovo silicone heater.
What follows is the opinion of one owner on his S5 printer:
It depends on your uses, if you want to modify, and if you need the size. The larger size has disadvantages, and if you don’t need the size I would go smaller. I also have the 300mm machine and it is more useful except when I need a lot of small parts ran in a batch, or the rare occasion I print something HUGE. The bed has a lot of mass, so I print a little slower on it, and making an enclosure was a huge pain.
I’m going to be swapping the bed heater on the 500mm so that I can reach temps high enough for ABS. The 300mm will reach ABS bed temps since I run PEI on my glass, so I only really need 90-100C bed temp.
My 300mm is a more useful machine 90% of the time.
consulter cette chaine youtube :
2 vidéos sur le montage qui vont te montrer ce qui t’attend ! Visionne les bien et en 30 minutes après déballage tu peux imprimer :
ça pour les premiers mods :
ça pour CURA :
ça avant de recevoir ta machine :
ça pour comprendre pourquoi ça merde parfois :
pense à acheter du filament un peu, surtout du PLA pour commencer.
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Génie Vert: compagne de génie industriel installée a Laval, Québec, Canada ; phone ; 1.450 806 3025